Ah, yes... the thrill of a new sewing pattern and matching it with your fabulous new fabric find. You envision yourself lunching in your new make, sipping a coffee with your girlfriends and waving your hand around like it's not a big deal that you just made the most fabulous little thing. The sun is always shining. It's so perfect!
So you lay out the fabric and pattern, cut it (oh the thrill of wanting to try it on once the first stitches are done) sew it and try it on. You look in the mirror and it.. looks... dreadful. The fabric is all wrong, the proportions are wrong... everything is VERY wrong. You now hate sewing, everything sucks and it's time to just give up, sell the machine and stop the pain. The sun never shines!
Who's been there?
One of the most frequent questions I'm asked, if not the most, is "But HOW do you KNOW which fabric is most suitable for what style/pattern?" The frustrations are real. I've seen the bins of half sewn projects and I've thought long and hard about giving you the answers.
So, my tips in choosing the right fabrics for the right sewing patterns have actually little to do with choosing the right fabrics, or patterns.
First, we have to take a step back. The real answer here, I believe, is actually about discovering your style and understanding your body type. If you understand your style/body, your frustrations in merging fabrics with patterns will be much reduced.
Here is my 5 step crash course in discovering your style:
Arm yourself with a small notepad, a tape measure, camera, a large coffee and courage.
Head to the mall, visit your favourite stores/designers and get ready to step out of your comfort zone.
Try on everything that catches your eye and everything you are not interested in. That cute leopard coat? Try it on. Short shorts? Try them on (I recently did that for my husband and I think I need therapy). Those pegged pants that look so cool? Yup, put those on too.
Don't judge! This is training your eye to be critical. To look for proportions that flatter you, and weed out silhouettes that don't. Personally, I love the boho chic look. The loose romantic dresses, the cute gathers, the dainty prints, tassels and peasant blouses. But, at a mere height of 5'4" I look like a small child trying to wear my mother's clothes. The volume swallows me up, the loose blouses and dresses give zero definition and make me look even shorter. As romantic and free as the look is, it just does nothing for me. And so I admire the look but stay away from it. By the same token, pieces that I'd find "boring" on the store racks are actually the ones that end up most flattering. Structured, smart pieces with few prints. That's my look. I really wanted to be boho chic, but I'm actually a minimalist. What I'm trying to say here is be open minded and leave the critic at home.
Remember that notepad, camera and tape measure I told you to pack? When you stumble upon that pair of cropped pants that make you look like a dream... take note! Literally. Measure that outer seam. Measure the pant opening. Measure the rise. Take a picture. Take note of the fabric they are in. Loose? Structured? Stretch? Next time you're looking to make a pant you'll have notes on your proportions. Do this with dresses, sleeves, jackets, etc. Notice where that pocket sits and where the cropped jacket hits on your body. Let the stores take the guess work out for you.
It's through sessions like this where you will learn your proportions, the fabrics pieces are made in and what really suits you. Armed with this information I believe you'll be steps ahead in having clarity as to what patterns will suit you, what fabrics to purchase and what looks will end up hanging in your closet (and get instagramed) rather than in your "will eventually finish" bin.
I hope this helps and I hope you have many days of happy sewing!